9. Hand Stitching
Once your glue has dried and your pieces are securely attached, you can punch your chisel holes for your stitch line. Start your chisel line with one tine hanging off the edge, keeping the chisel in the groove line you made earlier. Chisel all the way around your groove lines, making sure to place the first tine of the chisel in the last hole you made as you move around. This will keep your stitches spaced evenly, rather than trying to eyeball it.
Hand stitching a leather wallet may seem intimidating, but once you have the proper technique down, you'll be creating beautiful stitch lines with ease. For this project, you're going to use a saddle stitch all the way around the sides and bottom edge of your wallet. Take 2 hand sewing needles and measure out your thread to be about 4 times the length of what you need to sew. Thread each end through one of your needles, so that you have a needle in each hand with your thread strung between them.
Start on one side of your wallet, preferably at the top corner where your wallet opens up. Thread one of your needles through both layers of leather, pulling it all the way through and evening up the length of thread on each side. You should now have one needle and half of your thread on each side of your wallet.
Take the needle on the front side of your wallet, and push it halfway into the next stitch hole. Then take the needle on the back (the inside) of your wallet, and push it into the SAME stitch hole. Now, both needles should be halfway in the same hole, pointing in different directions.
Grab both of your needles and pull them the rest of the way through the leather. (The needle that was on the front side should now be on the back, and vice versa.) Pull your thread taut so that the stitch sinks a bit into the groove line. Repeat in the next hole
Repeat your saddle stitch to sew around the entire outside edge of your wallet. Stop when you reach your last hole (right before the hole you started with), leaving it empty.
Take the needle on the inside of your wallet, and push it into your last stitch hole, but only through the first layer of leather. Angle the needle so that it comes out from underneath this layer, from the wallet's opening.
Do the same thing with the needle on the outside of your wallet. Push the needle into the last stitch hole, pulling it through one layer (the main body piece) and out through the wallet's opening.
Pull each thread taut to lock in your stitch line, and then tie a square knot, making sure the knot is pushed inside and hidden in the wallet's opening. Carefully trim your thread ends. If you'd like, you can take a tack hammer and carefully tap down your stitch line to help it sink into the leather.