Let's go with a classic saddle stitch, shall we?
Make sure you have about four times the length of your pocket when cutting that thread. You don't want to reach the end of a line only to find out there's not enough thread left for a knot! Then, put a needle on both ends of the thread, and we're ready to rock.
Starting with the right-most hole of your pocket, push your first needle through the face of the leather, and ensure the thread is evenly divided.
Now, here's where the magic happens—come through the same hole again with your first needle from the face side and then come back through from the backside with your second needle, adding just the right amount of tension. Ta-da! We've got ourselves a beautiful zigzag stitch.
As you approach the last hole closest to the left-most edge of your leather, push your needle through the back of your main body leather (just one ply), then push it through the front of the pocket (still only one ply).
Tie a square knot right there, and trust us—you'll never see that knot. Snip the thread close to the leather with your Leather Cutting Scissors, and repeat this process for the other four pockets!
Back to the Punch Table!
Alright, travelers, it's time to punch things up a notch!
Grab that last small pocket and tape it down on the left side. Use the small Wing Divider to scribe a line down the right side of the pockets. Then, with the Rawhide Mallet and chisel, create sewing holes up the entire right side of the pockets. Make sure to punch one chisel hole outside the top of the pockets to fully prep your DIY leather wallet for another round of sewing!
Let's Get Sewing
Back to the sewing table, we go!
To make our leathercrafting efforts a breeze, we've got a top-secret hack for you.
Attach a piece of suede lace to the shop's roof with a slip knot and a plastic clip. Adjust it as needed to clip it to the hanging leather, ensuring the larger flap of leather on the non-pocket side stays out of your way. Now, that your leather is hooked in place, you can sew with ease!
Start from the top of the pockets, one hole out from the pocket, and work your way down to tie the knot at the bottom. We're making magic happen, one stitch at a time!
Gluing It All Together
It's time to cement our two main body pieces together, but before that, we need to overcut the face leather by about 1/2" on all sides. To do so, grab your S-18 All Purpose Cement. Apply cement to both pieces, ensuring there are no pesky air pockets.
Lay the leather on the edge of the table and brush glue on the entire piece, pockets down. Repeat this process with the larger piece of leather for solid coverage. After a 10-minute wait, use a sharp blade to trim the excess leather off the larger piece, so both pieces are the same size.
And just like that, they're glued to perfection!
Final Touches at the Punch Table
Back to the punch table for some finishing flair! Drop in the two pockets on the right side, taping the larger one first and aligning the smaller one just right. Give the corners a stylish cut with the 25-millimeter Corner Knife. Next, use the small Wing Divider to create a scribed line around the entire piece with the pocket side down.
Now, create stitch holes with the 6-pronged chisel and Rawhide Mallet where there are fewer plys of leather. For the thicker sections, use the 3 or 2-pronged chisel instead. Keep it straight and steady, and you'll have those holes in perfect alignment. Expand or contract your chisel holes for a snug fit. Look at that! You're ready to sew the final stitch around your leather travel wallet!
The Grand Finale: Secure Your Last Stitches Leathercrafter
We've come a long way and it's time for the grand finale!
Use the backside of the leather (where you created those chisel holes) to showcase the beautiful stitch line. Let's thread our trusty 0.8-millimeter Ritza Tiger Thread, ensuring we have enough to go all the way around our precious leather creation.
Start your stitches in the second hole of the larger pocket, and work your way outwards, sewing around the leather. Tie that knot at the initial hole, trim the rest of the thread, and voilà!
If your leather travel wallet's spine feels a bit stiff, don't worry—it's all part of the journey! You started with a free leather wallet pattern and now you have a fully functional and fashionable travel wallet to call your own.
You know how to make a leather wallet, so use it, break it in, and let your creation serve you on all your adventures to come!