How to Choose and Cut the Best Leather for Lace
If you've spent time in your leather shop, chances are you've used lace more often than you think. From stitching up a pouch to adding decorative braids or reinforcing edges, lace is a go-to material for many leathercrafters. But what leather makes the best lace—and why?
In this episode of The Leather Element, Chuck Dorsett breaks down which leathers work best for lacing, what to avoid, and how to stretch your materials (and your dollars) by cutting your own lace when it makes sense.
Why the Right Lace Matters
Not all lace is created equal. The leather you choose will affect the look, strength, stretch, and overall function of your project. Whether you're lacing a decorative edge or building something that needs to hold up under stress, matching your leather to your purpose is key. Suede and latigo leather are both great for laces—but for vastly different reasons. Make sure you fully understand your project needs and choose your lace accordingly.
When to Buy Lace by the Spool
Suede Lace
Suede lace is inexpensive and available in a wide range of colors, making it great for decorative work. However, it lacks a top grain layer, so it isn't very strong. If you're using suede, it's best to buy it pre-cut by the spool. The way it's processed gives it just enough integrity for decorative braids or accents.
Deerskin Lace
Soft, beautiful, and available in rich colors, deerskin lace is Chuck's favorite for detailed work like the Spanish basket weave. It's also stretchy and hard to cut cleanly by hand—another reason to buy this one pre-made.
Cutting Your Own Lace: Save Material and Money
If you buy full sides or double shoulders, you can get a lot of lace out of a single scrap—without wasting your usable leather. Chuck suggests trimming 1-2 inches from the spine or long edge of a hide. That little strip might yield over 100 feet of lace—practically free!
Use a wooden strap cutter with a sharp blade to slice your lace consistently. Bonus: you now have a clean edge to work from for your next project.
Other options for cutting lace include using a lace maker, a lace strander, a tabletop lace cutter, or even outsourcing the job. Weaver Leather Supply offers a lace cutting service in-house for a wide range of leather hides, so you can stock up on lace without cutting it yourself.
Top Leathers for Cutting Your Own Lace
Deertan Cowhide (2-3 oz)
Supple and drapey, Deertan Cowhide is ideal for smaller laced items like pouches or fringe. It has just enough stretch to make braiding easy, while still holding its shape.
Redrock Waxy Pull-Up Leather (3-4 oz)
Redrock Leather has more body than deer tan and is a bit stronger. It comes in six rich colors and offers a subtle color shift when stretched (a characteristic of pull-up leathers). Affordable, sturdy, and easy to work with, Chuck keeps rust and black in his shop just for lace.
Pioneer Chrome Oil Tanned Leather (4-5 oz)
For heavier lacing like arm guards or holster loops, Pioneer Leather offers great structure and strength. It's tight-grained and cuts a clean, finished-looking lace. Unlike softer leathers that can fuzz up on the edges, this one maintains a crisp profile.
For Heavy-Duty Lacing: Holster & Latigo Leathers
When strength is non-negotiable, step up to these leathers:
Holster Leather
This rugged leather is 100% veg tanned and traditionally offered in a heavier weight (8-10 oz), Weaver Leather Supply also offers holster leather in a lighter 6-7 oz version—perfect for strong, flexible lace.
Latigo Leather
A long-time favorite for tack and lace, Latigo Leather has the density and oil content to make long-lasting lace. Weaver even offers pre-cut spools in this leather for convenience.
A Quick Cost Comparison
Now, you may be wondering how much money can actually be saved by cutting your own lace. Here's Chuck's math:
- 1” x 8' strip of leather = 2/3 sq ft
- Cut to 1/8” lace = 64 feet of lace
That's a ton of usable material from a small offcut of leather. It's one of the most affordable ways to stock up on lace in the long run—plus, you never have to let your leather scraps go to waste!
What About Veg Tan and Rawhide?
Rawhide is in a category of its own and typically isn't used for lace, but can be useful if you need a hard, non-stretchy edge. But veg tan leather? It's everywhere! Holster leather is a veg tan, and you can take a natural hide, dye it any color, and it will break in with time.
Final Thoughts
The beauty of cutting your own lace is control—you choose the thickness, color, width, and texture to match your project exactly. While some leathers are better purchased pre-cut, there's incredible value in knowing how and when to cut your own.
With so many leathers to choose from at Weaver Leather Supply, you're sure to find the right lace for every project. Good luck with your crafting!
